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This is the Real Turkey      


The Good, The Bad and The Beautiful ( Türkçe versiyon )


The plane circles over Izmir. In the haze of late afternoon, the scorched earth and the plain buildings rest alongside a backdrop of grey-brown. We are landing. Why is it that when a plane lands in Turkey it has to land with a bump. No gentle touch down here.

Straight out of the plane and into the customs hall. I'm carrying nothing other than a hand holdall. I buy a carton of Superkings for a tenner. The reason for my lack of luggage is due to the urgent nature of my trip. The visit is the result of a last minute decision and a ticket purchased at the airport desk in Birmingham Airport on a no show availability.

I reach the customs hall surrounded by my countrymen. The big fat lady in front already has her handkerchief out, waving it around like a fan and dabbing her face in an effort to stem the flood of sweat dripping over her reddened cheeks. " It's far too hot", she proclaims. " I didn't realise it would be like this". I can't help wondering why she hadn't opted for a holiday in Alaska.

Out in to the air conditioned main hall and I quickly change some money. The cash dispensers and the no smoking signs are new since I last came. The airport is more organised and the toilets are clean. The exit doors open and the warmth of the late afternoon heat catches me off guard for a few seconds. Finding a taxi is easy. All standard fares now too - no haggling like it used to be. The driver is a pleasant soul, he talks about his job and the fact that he is working 7 days a week to and fro from the airport. He needs the work. He's saving up to get married. A helicopter carrying a huge plastic container of water under it's belly passes overhead. On it's way to a forest fire somewhere. There have been a few this year. The place is like a tinderbox in July. Why do people throw their cigarette ends out of the window as they drive along?

Nearing Kusadasi you see litter along the sides of the road. The building is prolific, new holiday homes and apartments in various stages of completion line the highway. I'm still wearing my sweatshirt and the weather's hot. We pass through the outskirts of the town. The sites and sounds I've missed for over a year are all around me now. Your probably reading this and thinking that Turkey doesn't sound all that impressive? Nothing could be further from the truth......for me it's my second home. From the moment I landed I felt comfortable. I've always felt comfortable here. You can criticise the things that you think are wrong. You can even chastise the Turk for his irritable driving habits and lack of consideration for the environment. You may even get annoyed when cars pass by your hotel at 1 am in the morning, horns blaring and playing loud music. You may find some aspects of life in Turkey not to your liking but you didn't really come here expecting another England did you?

The sea sparkles under the clear blue sky. Not far to go now. Guzelcamli my destination lies some 23 km from Kusadasi. We stop at a local bakkal (shop). The driver, true to genuine Turkish Hospitality insists on buying me a cool refreshing cola. Two scruffy street urchins politely ask me where I am from. Their happy little faces light up when they get an answer in their own language. They are lucky. They don't yet know that but they are born into a changing Turkey far removed from the hardships of the past. This fine country is going somewhere. Despite what people will tell you about the economy, despite the fact that there is a big disparity between rich and poor, no one starves here.

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