The plane landed with a crashing sound and swayed from side to side before coming to rest alongside the corrugated hut at Izmir Airport.

I was greeted by Mehmet and his four wives who took me by camel to the nearest train station. We took a steam train to Kusadasi and the remaining 4 km to the town centre was courtesy of one of the many donkey transportation companies.

The dusty gravel road that makes up the main high street was magnificient in colour, the tent canvass of the town's mayor Fuat Akdogan flapping slowly in the evening breeze. He greeted us with the customary welcome and rubbing of noses before offering us the well prepared local delicacy of sheeps head and...........

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